best cnc machine for wood That Amanda tool bit is mainly for surfacing, which I would only use very small amounts of DOC. Another factor is the type of wood you are carving/cutting. Softer wood like pine will easily create fuzzies and burrs. Again, you could try to reduce the pass depth, or run a finish carve over the last the carve.
If you heat a piece of steel with a hole in it, will the hole get larger or smaller? His answer was that the hole gets smaller because the steel expands. Clearly there are cases when this is not true.
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The Best CNC Routers for Woodworking. 1. Carbide 3D Shapeoko 4: Best Wood CNC Carving Machine for DIYers; 2. BobsCNC Evo 4: Best CNC Wood Router for the Money; 3. Axiom Iconic Series: User-Friendly Wood Carving Machine; 4. BobsCNC KL744: Best Large CNC Machine for Woodworking; 5. ZMorph . See more Whether you're creating intricate designs in wood, precise cuts in metal, or detailed engravings on glass and plastic, CNC routers offer unmatched versatility and accuracy. In the past, achieving such precision manually was .
Best CNC Router Overall: MYSWEETY CNC Pro Engraver Machine Shop Now Runner Up: SainSmart Genmitsu CNC Router Machine Shop Now Honorable Mention: . Re: New to CNC- Looking for best fonts and Bits Post by Adrian » Wed Feb 10, 2021 4:30 pm For very small letters like that you're nearly always going to be looking at the Single Line fonts (it's a choice in the Text Tool) and a profile toolpath set to be on the vector with a very fine tool like a 30 or 45 degree engraving bit. Poplar is an OK wood - but on small and delicate - no. Maple - is a really dense and close grained wood and in my opinion is the best for small delicate stuff. I prefer Corian over wood for the stuff I am talking about. I don't really know what you are trying to do. Depending on the job - I will select different materials. Not always wood.
That Amanda tool bit is mainly for surfacing, which I would only use very small amounts of DOC. Another factor is the type of wood you are carving/cutting. Softer wood like pine will easily create fuzzies and burrs. Again, you could try to reduce the pass depth, or run a finish carve over the last the carve. PaulRowntree Vectric Wizard Posts: 1687 Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:28 pm Model of CNC Machine: homebuilt 4'x2' (Mach3+G540)
I'm using V-Carve Dexktop 8.5 and a Shapeoko 3 XXL CNC with a 1/32nd ball nose mill. Even on large plaques certain letters do not carve well. It's very possible I'm trying to cut the letters too deep.
WAS encountering somewhat similar problems, but to a lesser extant, as I went opposite of Adrian, and used half round 60 degree (.005"flat)Engraving bit from Onsrud(#37-01) as there is no spiral to grab wood, and because of tiny flat the nooks and crannies came virtually flat faster with less or no cleanup required. scottp55 Vectric Wizard Posts: 4801 Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP12.* As Leo said, a dense, tight grained wood is great for CNC work. Hard maple is a great light colored wood, and using a glazing finishing technique really helps the carving to stand out. Bloodwood is an excellent darker colored wood. Basswood is a good choice if you also want to do hand carving to enhance the detail.
Scott, I took all your suggestions and I'm amazed at the lettering detail I'm getting on bad wood, can't wait till I can get some maple to work with. I faced the wood on my CNC, marked location and orientation of the piece in the jig. I then took the piece off the CNC and sanded down the face to finished grade.
When sorting out what woods were best for carving I used the same vector art model, same size, same bit & machine settings to ensure I had the best possible comparison. Was trying to get the best possible results using the same picture but in light of what you have said maybe need to try a different picture. Re: New to CNC- Looking for best fonts and Bits Post by Adrian » Wed Feb 10, 2021 4:30 pm For very small letters like that you're nearly always going to be looking at the Single Line fonts (it's a choice in the Text Tool) and a profile toolpath set to be on the vector with a very fine tool like a 30 or 45 degree engraving bit. Poplar is an OK wood - but on small and delicate - no. Maple - is a really dense and close grained wood and in my opinion is the best for small delicate stuff. I prefer Corian over wood for the stuff I am talking about. I don't really know what you are trying to do. Depending on the job - I will select different materials. Not always wood. That Amanda tool bit is mainly for surfacing, which I would only use very small amounts of DOC. Another factor is the type of wood you are carving/cutting. Softer wood like pine will easily create fuzzies and burrs. Again, you could try to reduce the pass depth, or run a finish carve over the last the carve.
PaulRowntree Vectric Wizard Posts: 1687 Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:28 pm Model of CNC Machine: homebuilt 4'x2' (Mach3+G540)
I'm using V-Carve Dexktop 8.5 and a Shapeoko 3 XXL CNC with a 1/32nd ball nose mill. Even on large plaques certain letters do not carve well. It's very possible I'm trying to cut the letters too deep. WAS encountering somewhat similar problems, but to a lesser extant, as I went opposite of Adrian, and used half round 60 degree (.005"flat)Engraving bit from Onsrud(#37-01) as there is no spiral to grab wood, and because of tiny flat the nooks and crannies came virtually flat faster with less or no cleanup required. scottp55 Vectric Wizard Posts: 4801 Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP12.*
As Leo said, a dense, tight grained wood is great for CNC work. Hard maple is a great light colored wood, and using a glazing finishing technique really helps the carving to stand out. Bloodwood is an excellent darker colored wood. Basswood is a good choice if you also want to do hand carving to enhance the detail.
Scott, I took all your suggestions and I'm amazed at the lettering detail I'm getting on bad wood, can't wait till I can get some maple to work with. I faced the wood on my CNC, marked location and orientation of the piece in the jig. I then took the piece off the CNC and sanded down the face to finished grade.
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